Brunton Compass

[kmrbnc]

Hi, new to the forums (and GID projects in general). I tried looking for other threads that may have already covered this and didn't find any, and it didn't appear to fit in any other category. Although not a watch, the technical aspects seemed to most closely match a watch dial, so I'm posting here.

I recently bought a Brunton 15TDCL compass (http://www.brunton.com/product.php?id=87). It has several luminous parts (North end of magnetic needle, orienting arrow, several base plate markers) but the bezel (bearing numbers, degree markings, and N-S-E-W headings) are not GID. Although several higher-end compasses have more GID parts, they are more expensive. None, as far as I know, have as much as I am considering doing here.

The project requires VERY fine paint as some of the markings are 0.5 mm or less in width. I would like to lume the bearing numbers (every 20 degrees from "20" up to "360") and the small degree markings separating them. The compass has markings for every 2 degrees, so there are a total of 180 such marks for the entire bezel.

Also, due to the likelihood of being handled in rain and other harsh conditions, it will need to be coated with some protectant to increase durability.

It doesn't have to lume the entire night by itself as I can always flash a light on it to recharge if I have to, so any paint would likely work (although longer lasting is naturally preferable).

I am debating between using the Watch lume paint from the speciality section, but don't know if it would hold up under the conditions a compass would be exposed to in the outdoors. The solvent-based Ultra Green and Ultra Blue were my top choices, but after looking in the forums, I realize I know to little about this and didn't want to ruin the compass with my inexperience.

Any advise is VERY appreciated. I would be happy to post pictures of the completed project once it's done.

[Skylighter]

I would highly recommend sticking to the watch lume formula for this project. I even think the watch lume formula would do ok outdoors without adding a protective layer. Of course, a protective layer always helps, but would be almost impossible to apply and still look good.

I think I would suggest painting a tiny dot in a "easy to remove" area. Then go abuse it a bit. See if it meets your needs before you spend hours with a straight pin doing the detail work.

[kmrbnc]

Thank you. I will give it a try.

There are other forums (backpacking and hiking related) where compass users have found that the numbers on the bezel can wear off over time. They have recommended using clear nail polish as a protective layer to cover the entire bezel.

Applied that way, it would not only be easier, but likely more aesthetically pleasing.

I will get work on it. I'll try the GID application first, and then consider adding the protective layer once the GID paint cures.

Thank you again! I'll get some pictures up once the project is done.

[kmrbnc]

Okay, the compass is partly (maybe fully) done. I ended up doing it three times, and the final result is fair. It could be better, but since it's my first glow project, I think it turned out alright considering the technical challenges.

Now some photos!

2 photos are from how the compass was before adding any glow. Actually, there may be a few specks visible as I initially forgot the "Before" shots. I took them after carefully removing all the glow paint from the initial 2 failed attempts.

The first time I tried to use a straight pin (actually a staple since it was the smallest diameter pin like object I had available). But I couldn't get the thickness right. The little markings on the compass for each degree are not very deep. I'd estimate 1/32 inch or so. The watch lume paint was not grainy, but was too think to get a consistent application even with the staple.

The second time, I tried to paint on an even layer and then tried to carefully stencil out the undesired areas with an Xacto knife. Thankfully I tried only a part of the bezel. It didn't work since the markings are so small I couldn't get the results to be acceptable. Again, I think my lack of experience played a roll here as I've seen projects from others that were of similar detail level and looked much better than what I got.

See the next post for the "After" shots.

[kmrbnc]

My third try involved using the smallest & stiffest paint brush I could find. I had to dip just the very tip in the paint and, using two hands with both resting on the table, carefully paint over each marking. I did only the major markings, except one small one to make 360 degrees (North) stand out. After the initial application dried, I applied a second coat.

After the second coat, I applied a touch-up third coat to the markings that needed it.

After the third coat, I let the whole thing dry and then used an Xacto to carefully trim each line to keep it as straight and even as possible.

For the "N" marking North, I first taped over it and then cut out the mask and painted over it. It was the easiest part of the project, although by then I'd learned some of what NOT to do.

The results are attached.

[kmrbnc]

FINAL THOUGHTS:

This is MUCH harder than I thought, but still very satisfying when the final results are at least close to what I had envisioned. I definitely could use some more experience, and a more versatile repertoire of techniques and tools. I think this was probably more ambitious of a first project than I should have attempted, but it was fun.

Any criticism (constructive) is appreciated.

[Skylighter]

It looks like you did an awesome job for your first project. Congratulations.

Most of the professional watch lumers use something called an oiler for application. It is like a straight pin with a flat head. Imagine a very tiny flat head screwdriver with a razor sharp head.